Yohji Yamamoto’s shows often have cinematic flair, with soft, moody music and scores of models treading the runway dressed in layers, drapes and roomy silhouettes made with a mix of romance — and military tailoring. The fashion photographer Takay captured that cinematic spirit with his melancholy, poetic video presentation of the collection.
Models still walked the runway, but every so often their images were artfully frozen, blurred or interspersed with close-ups of details — a lineup of buttons on the front shoulders of a jacket, or raggedy patches with the phrases “Handle with Care” or “Fragile” stuck here and there on the back of a rumpled jacket.
With all their layers and oversize, rough-edged clothing, Yamamoto’s models resembled stylish actors — or poets — after a rough night of revelry — and brawling. There were so many great looks here — even for those without literary or artistic ambitions.
Long and short denim coats came with patches, button flaps and a workwear feel, while sporty, baggy tops and trousers were held together with whipstitching, and hung loosely off models’ frames. Long, military style topcoats had floppy epaulets or wide sleeves.
On a surreal note, some coats were printed with magnified eyes, with novelty eyeballs that doubled as buttons.
Suits were crinkly and conceptual, with sleeves that appeared to be slashed or torn, but were really just unbuttoned and folded part way down the arm. Shirts buttoned together like jigsaw puzzle pieces while baggy trousers were cinched with languid rope belts or long, whip-like leather ones. This collection was coming apart at the seams, and doing it beautifully.